Stefan Vetter, Steinterrassen Sandstein, Sylvaner trocken, 2016, Franken

This wine is unfiltered and unfined. Its pale lemon hue is matt in appearance, not gloss. Intense nose of quince, beeswax and blossom, with hints of chamomile – developing out over time to show a resinous character. Salty, sour beer on the palate, along with more quince. Quite refreshing, pithy acidity. The wine’s low alcohol (10%) belies its medium body and concentrated, almost silky mouthfeel. There is also notable phenolic grip (white ‘tannins’). Suggestions of caramel as well. The finish is long, satisfyingly sour, and moreish. This would go well with a salty Bretzel.

Stefan Vetter’s reputation goes before him as a producer of scintillating natural wine – a genre that suits Sylvaner more than most other varieties I can think of. A lot of Sylvaners I’ve had in my time have been on the earthy, riper side. This specimen is a totally different creature. Saline, pure and really quite interesting.


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