Given that I translated a whole chapter about Clemens Busch and his wines in this book (The new art of German Riesling), it’s a strange that I have only ever blogged once about a wine of his, and that was nearly four years ago.
I love Rieslings from red soil, be they from Nierstein, Birkweiler, Ungstein, Pünderich or elsewhere. They seem to ooze a generosity and depth to which my simple palate can easily relate.
Clemens Busch, Vom roten Schiefer, Riesling trocken 2012, VDP Ortswein, Mosel
Here is a quote from the English I wrote:
Grapes from younger vines in Rothenpfad are used for this wine. Spontaneously fermented and usually slightly off-dry. This wine has won quite a cult following among private customers and sommeliers. “It features on a good few wine lists in New York.” [Clemens Busch] People seem to adore its spicy, wild, unreformed personality.
Rothenpfad not only has red slate soils; it is also extremely steep. While tasting through Busch’s wines in ‘preparation’ for the book, this was the vineyard that stood out for me at dry, ‘grand cru’ level. This, the village wine, has no where near the same complexity as a Rothenpfad GG, but it has the same big-hearted personality as its big brother.
Beautiful golden yellow in appearance. Waxy scents rise up out of the glass, along with slate and notes of pineapple and a hint of raspberry. Welcoming and creamy. Waxy on the palate, with reddish fruit, succulant peach, slate and a suggestion of bitterness on a generous finish. Showing extra precision 48 hours after opening, with pineapple underlaying an ample acidic backbone. Only 12 abv, which is a good, modest counterpoint to the wine’s silky, moreish character.
These notes are brief, but the wine itself has plenty of legs in it yet.