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As far as I know, there is at least one other, somewhat more famous, ‘Frauenberg’: the Rheinhessen cru which, in no small measure, owes its renown to the exploits of Klaus-Peter Keller and Hans Oliver Spanier.

This particular Frauenberg, on the other hand, overlooks Mauchen, a sleepy village in the borough of Müllheim in Südbaden.

Lämmlin-Schindler, Frauenberg Spätburgunder GG 2011, Baden
Quite dark and dense for a Pinot, with a surprising purplish tinge around the edges. An initial whiff of raspberry and blackberry on the nose, followed by a suggestion of apple. Earthy, rusty, blood-like hints, along with a sprinkling of wild herbs. Stuffing and structure on the palate, though quite softly-softly in terms of its flavours (merely a little raspberry and some green stemminess).

After leaving the wine half-full in the fridge, I return to it five days later. Certainly quite a lot more open now, with black cherry as well as dried herbs and a spicy, slightly animally note on the nose. In the mouth, it’s less about the flavours and more about the tannins – which are supple and minerally. This is a beefy wine, albeit one with a good acidic backbone and considerable potential lurking underneath. There is nothing limpid about it at all. Definitely Pinot, but in a different idiom to the elegance, transparency and leanness of many its cousins nowadays. Grand cru where the emphasis is on stature and masculinity. I’d give it at least another five years.


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