Quality-wise, this wine occupies a higher echelon in Alexander Laible’s range compared to the previous offering I covered a few weeks ago.

Alexander Laible, Riesling ‘SL’ trocken 2014, Baden
Vivid yellow verging on golden. As with the Alte Reben, the ‘SL’ gives off a distinctly sweaty whiff – which is unfortunately the best scientific descriptor I can find. Yet, this is just a passing sensation which dissipates by the time I return to the wine 24 hours later. On the one hand, the nose features red fruits such as cherry and strawberry. On the other, I can smell succulent, dripping apricots. The overall effect is quite voluptuous.

Great concentration on the palate, with apricot again. This wine would be almost baroque were it not for a fine vein of acidity keeps things taut and together. Laible’s ‘SL’ is indeed a step-up from the Alte Reben, courtesy of its density and length. Again, very impressive – and further proof that Baden isn’t just about the Pinot varietals.