Wasenhaus, Gutedel 2019, Baden

Two Burgundy-trained growers producing miniscule quantities from top sites inherited from Henrik Möbitz in and around Staufen as well as in the Kaiserstuhl area make this a highly sought-after property. I was never able to get my hands on any Möbitz wine. His following back then (early 2010s) was mostly confined to Germany and the US. However, Wasenhaus have turned heads in the UK indie wine scene in the past few years, so the wines have become slightly easier to come by from my point of view.

A slightly cloudy, deep lemon-green colour with amber hints. Cidery notes on the nose to begin with, along with a whiff of yeast. This evolves to show ripe apple and pear, green tea and a hint of blood orange. Quite remarkable aromatic intensity. The orchard fruit takes a back step on day two, giving way to chalky notes and a suggestion of hazelnut and pastry.

For a wine with 10% abv (!), you might expect something faintly watery without the residual sweetness that you might associate with such alcohol levels. Not here. Medium (-) body and bone dry, with considerable flavour intensity mirroring the characteristics on the nose and complementing them with a saline, lingering finish. This is structured, detailed, refreshing and extremely drinkable wine that punches well above its diminutive weight and is worth every penny.


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