Tatomer, Steinhügel Riesling 2017, Santa Lucia Highlands, California

Graham Tatomer is also one of those rare birds: a Californian who makes Riesling. Tatomer learned a lot from working in the Wachau at Weingut Knoll, where he also became acquainted with Grüner Veltliner.

Given the wildfires that raged in California earlier this autumn, not to mention in the neighbouring US states of Oregon and Washington, there is a certain irony in the assertion that this wine comes from a cool-climate region. But the Santa Lucia Highlands is considered just that, thanks to the cold Pacific breezes and fog that funnel in from Monterey Bay.

An unassuming lemon-green. Expressive nose. Exotic floral notes (honeysuckle dripping with pollen), sweet apple, cream, hints of candied lemon, and green tea. This is not completely dry in my book – the honeysuckle is quite overt. Medium to full body, 13% abv. Luscious texture, longish finish.

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