Oliver Zeter has been on my ‘wine radar’ for several years – but you could say that he is responsible for some of the best wines I’ve never drunk. Time to change this.
Oliver Zeter, Sauvignon Blanc Fumé 2016, Pfalz
Bright straw yellow in appearance. A distinct nose, but one that adamently refuses to descend into caricature and kitsch. Ripe gooseberries, smoky, savoury bacon, fresh green leaves (mint), elderflower. This is complex and balanced – and quite unlike most Sauvignons I’ve come across. The riff of gooseberries and elderflower continues on the palate, but without the burning green nettley/peppery sting that often emerges on the back palate. What we have is nice acidity providing backbone instead. Medium (+) body with a forceful, persistent finish that ends in a satisfying vein of smoky minerality. Fumé by name, fumé by nature.