Northern Wine, ‘Roadworks on the M6’, 2022


Stacey and Harry travelled around the world, making wine, before deciding to establish their own winery in Harry’s native Cumbria. The couple buy and transport fruit from vineyards in southern England to their facility on the outskirts of Kendal. It’s probably safe to say they will have experienced many a roadwork on the M6 motorway, Britain’s main north-south artery, while driving up and down the country.

Their story seems to be markedly different from that of the predominantly gilet-wearing corporate/landowner types that populate the English wine landscape.

The winery’s main sources of fruit are Essex – most notably Clayhill Vineyard in the Crouch Valley – and Wiltshire. This wine is 100% Pinot Noir, picked at the West Street Vineyard near Braintree in Essex.

Initial impressions on the nose are of raspberry followed by cherry. Cocoa, mushroom and maybe a hint of cinnamon on day two. This is a medium-bodied yet delicate wine. Quite feminine in character with lovely perfumed aromas, a fresh but silky mouthfeel, and only a suggestion of tannin. Red cherries come more and more to the fore from days two to three. This has 11.9% abv – quite a statement and testimony to high-quality fruit that I daresay was given lots of extra hang time well into October or even November. Unfiltered and unfined. (I wouldn’t be surprised if viticulturist Duncan McNeil had a hand in growing the grapes.)

I only had one bottle (as a gift) but would suggest that this wine will improve and develop extra complexity for anyone who has the necessary patience. I even see that there are still some bottles for sale directly from the winery.

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