I wrote the following last July, but have failed to post it until now. Now all I have are distant yet pleasant memories. I regularly overthink things and probably thought I could improve the text at a later stage.
There has been a notable buzz surrounding an up-and-coming generation of growers in Niederkirchen – a village that benefits from its proximity to the Mittelhaardt meccas of Deidesheim, Ruppertsberg, Forst and Wachenheim. The Fusser, Scheuermann and Seckinger wineries have all been making waves. All three practise biodynamics.
The Seckinger brothers in particular – Philipp, Jonas and Lukas – are arguably the best known of this trio of producers, thanks in part to their discernable social media presence.
Seckinger, Riesling vom Löss 2019, Pfalz
Pale lemon. Wet stone, hints of pineapple, white currant, touch of herbs – on both nose and palate. Dry as a bone, light and almost delicate on the tongue but with refreshing, electrifying acidity. Clean as a whistle. Pineapple more pronounced on the second day. White stone fruit also emerges. Still very youthful of course; I would be very interested to taste this wine in, say three or four years.
Nussbaum.Projekt, Sylvaner Löss und Kalk 2018, Pfalz
This is a garage winery involving three gentlemen called Matthias Rau, Benedikt Grein and Joachim Schmidt, who specialise in Riesling, Pinot Noir and Sylvaner. Their vineyard plots are located in Ruppertsberger Spieß and Königsbacher Ölberg – two privileged vineyards. I was lucky to grab a couple of bottles of this last year from a merchant based in the Rhein-Neckar region. Sylvaner fermented on its skins. Inaugural vintage.
Medium gold, or is it pale amber? Caramel pear aromas on the nose, pear and red cooking-apple peel. Medium acidity, light tannins, pleasant phenolic astringency. Think juicy, just-picked red apples from the best orchard possible. Tremendous volume on the nose. All the above translate beautifully on to the palate. Hard to believe that it’s only 11 abv.
This is the moment I stopped writing last July. However, the Nussbaum wine had great soul and was one the most memorable wines of 2020. My notes do it scant justice.